A vacation quick fix is perhaps the best way to describe the province of Ilocos Norte. Just an hour plane-ride away and you’re transported to a place of immense culture and relaxation. A paradox of new and old, history and development, virgin and inhabited, Ilocos Norte was seemingly meant to be a confusing paradise of sorts – for the adventurer, the historian, the escapist.
Ilocos Norte Sunset
Thirty minutes from the airport and we ended up in the town of Currimao, where we were greeted by a friendly face, my high school best friend Toni, owner of PLAYA TROPICAL. Playa is one of the more high-end beach resorts in Ilocos Norte. Sunlit Bali-inspired villas surround the infinity pool that looks over the ocean. It is detachment from the real world, at its best and one of the most popular wedding reception and pre-nuptial photo shoot venues in the area. Our favorite spot is the hammock hanging from huge coconut trees with the view of the beach and the sunset.
Sunset at Playa
The Famous Hammock
Playa's Room
We had to fight the urge to just lounge around the resort. We drove off to PAGUDPUD, which is about two hours away. On the way, we passed by STA. MONICA CHURCH, where Imee Marcos got married. Unfortunately, they were closed for the day, but we still enjoyed taking photos by the brick walls and the beautiful bell tower. The church was also facing a bay, which makes the atmosphere all the more peaceful. After this, we saw the huuuugggeee BANGUI WINDMILLS. I was so tempted to run around flapping white cloth and sing Regine’s Biyahe Tayo, to Allen’s horror. Also on the way to Pagudpud is CAPE BOREADOR, a deserted lighthouse. The keepers let tourists go up all the way to the bulb itself. Dangerous and not outfit-friendly (wear shorts!), but worth it nonetheless. We arrived at Pagudpud at sunset. After a pretty rough ride, we chose to just enjoy the view of the big waves in front of KAPULUAN RESORT while drinking beer. Kapuluan is a surfer’s resort, with very minimalist accommodations and a very hyper poodle.
Sta. Monica Church
Bangui Windmills
View from Cape Boreador
Kapuluan Beach Resort, Pagudpud
The next day we headed to the most photographed place in all of Ilocos Norte. In CRISOLOGO ST., with its well-preserved old Filipino architecture, one would feel the urge to sing Armida Siguion Reyna songs while pretending to be Maria Clara and Crisostomo Ibarra. One strut through the avenue, and the history we just read in high school came alive before our eyes. Photographers would surely go crazy in this place! After which, we visited Chavit Singson’s BALUARTE, where miniature horses run around without care. We braved the scorching temperature to see the butterfly garden and feed the camels. For the kids in us, this was perhaps the best part.
Calle Crisologo
Baluarte
Of course, the biggest highlight of every trip (especially in the Philippines) is the food! Having Ilocano roots, it’s as if my taste buds were genetically made to enjoy everything we ate there. It truly felt like biting into history and connecting with our Filipino heritage. There is nothing more Filipino after all than a feast of longganisa, bagnet, poquepoque (don’t to pronounce the E!”) and kamatis and bagoong which can be found in many restaurants throughout the province. Of course there is the Ilocos empanada, which is an institution in itself. While many have attempted to bring this wonder into Manila, nothing has compared to buying those freshly fried Batac orange empanadas (double meat and eggs please!) with sweet vinegar and watching the oil soak into the brown paperbags. A new gastronomic experience for us was meeting the dinuguan and longganisa pizza. Not being a big fan of dinuguan, I was apprehensive to try this east-meets-west oddity, but after the first bite, I was hooked. Allen still craves for it to this day! We can't wait to visit again!
Batac's Empanada
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